Tag Archives: ENGINE


Old School Repair: This Dude Welds A Crankshaft Back Together Like A Boss! It Was Broken In Two!

If you watch videos from other countries, where guys are doing repairs that would seem nearly impossible without modern tools, you start to appreciate and understand what our grandparents and great grandparents were doing to make similar repairs. It’s a true testament to how good something can be even without CNC machines or what have you. In this video, the only equipment used to fix this completely snapped crankshaft is a drill press, a stick welder, and a lathe. The lathe isn’t anything new, but it does seem to work well, and the guy using it clearly knows what he’s doing. But the lathe could be 50 years old or 5, it’s all the same.

Watch as this guy cleans and machines each end of the broken pieces, which might actually be from two different crankshafts, slides them together, indexes them, and then gets his arc welding on. He then straightens the crank, machines the crank, and finally drills the oiling holes in it and then sends it on its way to be used in some truck or what have you. It’s impressive and you’ll dig it.

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Dyno Proven 500 Horsepower Combos: Three Stock Bottom End 5.3 LS Combos That Will Make You 500 Horsepower Or More.

I get asked about LS engine combos all the time, and the overwhelming majority of them are from people who think that they need to build an engine with all aftermarket parts. When I ask them how much horsepower they want to make, the vast majority say something like 450 horsepower. This makes me shake my head, because making 400 to 500 horsepower is simple and doable if you have a 5.3 LS that runs. Stock they make 350 horsepower, so anything you do from there will make real power improvements. A camshaft and headers will make over 400, and when you combine an intake, heads, etc, there are real power numbers to be had. And then there’s nitrous! Okay that’s another video, these are completely naturally aspirated combos that are based on a stock bottom end 5.3L.

Check out Richard’s combos, dyno results, and more in the video below.

Video Description:

HOW DO I MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? DO I NEED FORGED INTERNALS TO MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? CAN MY 5.3L MAKE 500 HP WITHOUT BOOST? WHAT IS THE BEST CAM TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT ARE THE BEST HEADS TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT INTAKE SHOULD I USE ON MY 5.3L? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO ON THREE (3) DIFFERENT 5.3L BUILDS THAT NOT ONLY EXCEEDED 500 FLYWHEEL HP, BUT DID SO WITH THE STOCK BOTTOM END (STOCK BLOCK, CRANK, RODS AND PISTONS). ALL YOU NEED ARE THE RIGHT HEADS, CAM AND INTAKE (WITH HEADERS) AND YOU TOO CAN REACH THE 500-HP MARK.

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New Product Install: New Mid-Mount Gen III HEMI Front Accessory Drive – HEMI Swap Greatness!

 

One of the most annoying and frustrating parts of any late-model engine swap can be fitting a bunch of accessories that never came in your car up front and in between the engine and radiator. Whether you realize it or not, almost all of the late model V8 cars are considerably larger than their previous counterparts. A new Challenger is bigger than a 1970 Challenger, for example, and so is the underhood space. These new cars are designed to fit around all the stuff that needs to be on these late model engines, and the older cars weren’t. Thankfully the gang at Holley has come up with the solution. Their new Mid Mount accessory drive system is a game-changer.

When Holley came out with accessory drive systems for the LS engine it made swapping one into just about anything much less of a headache, and now Mopar fanatics are going to benefit from the same technology. Their bracketless design means everything fits tight to the block minimizing any chance of interference between accessories and the chassis, body, etc.

Video Description:

Holley’s new Gen III Hemi Mid-Mount Accessory Drive Kits offers a simple, clean and reliable way to install all of the serpentine belt-driven accessories for your late-model Mopar engine onto our patent-pending bracket-less design. This allows the alternator, air conditioning pump, power steering pump, and everything else to be mounted tighter to the engine, making a Gen III Hemi swap an easier affair, regardless if you are using a VVT or non-VVT engine in your build! https://www.holley.com/products/engin…

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Junkyard LS Cam Test: Will The Same Camshaft Work With A Carb, EFI, Nitrous, Or Boost?

When it comes to camshafts there is never a shortage of opinions or available grinds. And one thing that I always find amusing is the “ideal conditions” world that so many hot rodders, racers, and tuners seem to think they are in, when in fact some very small percentage of them are in that place at all. If you are racing at very highly competitive, elite, or combination limited levels, where every single horsepower can make a difference between winning or losing, then having the perfect camshaft might be the difference over a weekend of racing. But if you aren’t in the small percentage of racers who find themselves in that position, then you open up a world that includes a lot of camshafts and engine components that will give you everything you need.

But do you have to have a different camshaft for your LS engine if you are running a carburetor instead of EFI? How about if you add boost to it? Richard Holdener has done the testing so that you can see the answers right here. Watch

Video Description:

DO YOU NEED A SPECIFIC CAM FOR BOOST? WHAT ABOUT FOR A CARB, FOR EFI OR FOR NITROUS OXIDE? WHAT IF I TOLD YOU THE SAME CAM WORKS ON ALL THOSE APPLICATIONS? HAS RICHARD LOTS HIS MARBLES? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE I RAN THE SAME CAM ON A CARBURETED LS, A NITROUS LS, AN EFI LS AND A SUPERCHARGED EFI (GAS AND E85) LS. WHAT HAPPENED WHEN I RAN THE SAME COMP CAM DESIGNED FOR AN NA APPLICATION, ON ALL THESE DIFFERENT COMBOS? FULL DYNO RESULTS.

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An Electric Subaru Brat? Okay, This Is An Electric Vehicle Swap We Think Might Be Real Fun!

The idea of taking a gas or diesel-powered car and making it electric intrigues me. I think it would be a fun project and have been thinking about a few different fun cars to do the conversion on. Of course, I have a jillion other projects going so there isn’t much need to be worrying about anything in the short term, but I certainly think it’s a fun idea and love checking out projects that other people are doing. So when James Fleischman at Flash Drive Motors sent me an email with a link to this Brat build I was intrigued.

Finding out that he’s located just outside of Austin, which is only a few hours drive from me, also made me want to go and play with electric cars so trust me that’s on the list of must-do things this summer.

But back to this project. This one is a Subaru Brat, you know, the little truck that came with the seats in the back. It was in really good shape, as it had been driven on the road up until 2017 but it still needed to get redone. Luckily, Flash Drive is all about restoring cars and not just making them electric. In fact, they will gladly work on your gasoline-powered ride, do EFI conversions, etc.

But I digress! Here are the first two videos in the Electric Brat conversion series, and we’ll have more tomorrow!

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Valvetrain Tech: If Light Weight And Low Reciprocating Mass Matter So Much, Do Stiffer Valve Springs Cost Horsepower?

Roller rockers, roller lifters, beehive valve springs, lightweight valves, lightweight locks and retainers, and the list goes on. These are all things designed to aid in controlling valvetrain at high rpm and under extreme power levels, and they do this by reducing the load required to move and control these components. So it would make sense that lighter valve springs would also be good for that. After all, anyone that has built an engine before knows that spinning the engine over by hand is very easy when it is just a short block and gets harder as you add components. If you have an engine with no spark plugs in it, and no rocker arms, then it is still really easy to spin by hand. But when you also have to turn the valvetrain, it becomes much more difficult.

So if you had an engine that didn’t “require” heavier valve springs, because it wasn’t going to be run at high rpm or didn’t have a camshaft that needed the extra valve control that heavy springs provide, would it make more horsepower with lighter weight springs that the others? Logic says yes. Or at least it seems like it does. But what does the dyno say?

Luckily for us, Richard Holdener knows because he’s done this very test and here it is so you can see for yourself.

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Holley’s New High-Clearance, High-Flow, Lo-Ram Intake Is Available For LS3. Burst Panel Optional!

Holley’s new Lo-Ram intake manifolds are designed for those that don’t want a scoop or bubble, or who don’t want to cut a hole in their hood, but who want big power capability. Or, for those that want an intake manifold mounted intercooler, dual injectors, and a burst panel. They are available in a couple of different configurations so you can decide just how low your profile needs to be in order to fit in your vehicle. Just think of them as low, and super low, although Holley refers to them as top feed and front feed.

The top feed unit has the throttle body mounted to the top half of the intake, out front, just like their mid-ram and high-ram intakes. The front feed unit has a throttle body mounting location that is lower, and mounts to both the upper and lower half of the intake. Another great feature of the front feed is the option for dual injectors and rails for those guys making big power on E85 or Methanol. There is also an option upper plenum that is available with an SFI burst panel mounting location!

This stuff really is made for big power. Watch the video to learn even more.

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